YEAR: 2001
Washington, Virginia (no, it’s not Washington, D.C.) is hardly a nexus of discerning gastronomic taste. It’s a historic town, a throwback to our colonial heritage, nestled at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains. But thanks to O’Connell, those with the most sophisticated palates, from celebrities accustomed to dining at Michelin-rated restaurants around the world, Washington, D.C. luminaries, a few First Ladies and even a Supreme Court justice or two have made the drive from our nation’s capital to dine at The Inn at Little Washington.
Opened in the 1970s, The Inn features what O’Connell calls “refined American cuisine,” which is his take on blending the high and low of what American restaurants offer. His specialty is remaking classic favorites — elevating Americans’ most beloved memories of mom’s cooking to a form that retains that precious legacy while putting those flavors on par with the most sophisticated preparations from formally trained chefs. “The challenge for American chefs is to continue to do that and not turn our backs on mom’s pineapple upside-down cake — all the tastes that were a part of our childhoods that we can use to build upon.”
WHAT I EAT WHEN NOBODY IS LOOKING: “My secret favorite go-to beverage is nicknamed a Culpeper Shandy (because a kitchen boy from Culpeper, Virginia used to make it for me whenever he thought I was stressed).
It’s simply 2/3 German wheat beer mixed with 1/3 lemonade and a few ice cubes. A Shandy is calming, refreshing and it’s ideal for any time of the day or night.”