Tuned In

Top Chef Returns: You’re Texas Toast

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BRAVO

Emeril Lagasse, Padma Lakshmi and Tom Colicchio get ready to pig out.

Last night saw the debut of Top Chef Texas, and true to the popular cliché about the nation’s largest state (until Alaska ruined everything), it was bigger. I have long since learned that it is pointless to really judge a Top Chef season until it has a few episodes under its belt and the contestants really start to distinguish themselves. And I’m sure as hell not going to try to judge this one from a first episode beginning with 29 freaking contestants. But a few miscellaneous thoughts, and then let’s hear what you think:

* Seriously, 29? I know that the natural tendency of reality TV is to run towards bloat (someday all reality shows will be two hours long), but—assuming Bravo did this to squeeze extra episodes out of the season—there had to be better ways than giving Top Chef its own Hollywood round. It felt like a winnowing process I’d rather have done before the season begins. I like to get a glimpse of the restaurant kitchen when I’m dining, but I don’t need to hang out all afternoon and watch them simmer the stock.

* I am, however, very much in favor of Texas as a new location, at least for its potential to show off several regional cuisines of a very big state. That said, you decide to show us we’re in Texas by having your chefs prepare pork, not beef? Huh.

* I never in my life thought I would say this, but I could do with a little more personality from Emeril Lagasse. It’s not like I want to go back to the overpowering “Bam!” era of his late-’90s Food Network heyday—and let’s not think about his NBC sitcom—but Chef Lagasse felt a little sleepy last night.

* I watched a screener of this episode, by the by, with the Tuned In Jrs., who are intense fans of the show—it’s one of two primetime series we watch together, the other bring The Sing-Off. Eleven years ago when Survivor debuted, who would have guessed that reality TV would be the solution to shared family viewing?

* As I said, a season of Top Chef tends to come down to the contestants, and it will be a while until I can draw a bead on them. But I’m already a fan of Cruise Ship Chef—because, come on, a little respect for cruise ships!—and I have to give the show credit for seeming to introduce an obnoxious, love-to-hate-him character (Tyler), then give him the boot instead of keeping him around sheerly for drama.

I’m kibitzing here, but I am excited to see what the season can do with the Lone Star State. Now barbecue me some brisket, and fast.